France Imposes Hefty Levy on Ultra‑Fast Fashion Imports


Shein opening its Paris store

France has started charging fees on fast‑fashion items that could reach nearly €20 per garment by 2030, as it tries to curb the sale of cheap clothing lifted from e‑commerce sites.


The levy came into force on Tuesday following a law passed in June that targets ultra‑fast fashion operators such as Shein, Temu and AliExpress.


Those e‑commerce giants, known for shipping large volumes of inexpensive apparel, have faced calls from French officials for stifling ultra‑fast fashion.


China’s commerce ministry called the law discriminatory and a trade barrier, saying it could breach World Trade Organization principles.


French Minister Mathieu Lefevre said the “harmful effects of ultra‑fast fashion” on the environment and economy were “well known.


In July, the ministry clarified the levy would not apply to retailers like H&M or Zara, a move that has led some to claim the measure shields European firms.


Under the legislation, ultra‑fast fashion is defined by two criteria: the volume of clothing placed on the market and the cost of repairing garments relative to their purchase price. The per‑item fee will vary on a scale tied to both metrics.


For 2026, the charges range from €0.50 on underwear to €2 on T‑shirts, €9 on jeans and €12 on jackets. The fee could rise to about €19.50 per item by 2030, with a cap at 50 % of the pre‑tax price.


The move follows Shein’s announcement of a $26.2 bn valuation after its first day of public trading in Hong Kong. The company, originally valued near $100 bn, has been hit by competition, trade tensions and scrutiny over a supply chain fraught with ethical concerns.


Shein previously warned that the French legislation would “worsen the purchasing power of French consumers” amid a cost‑of‑living crisis. Temu, a Chinese‑owned marketplace, also faces criticism from UK and US politicians. A spokeswoman said it acknowledges the environmental concerns raised by the French law but argued the platform is not a fast‑fashion company because it does not manufacture its own items.