The Fight for Kolhapuri Sandals: Local Artisans vs. Luxury Fashion Giants

Artisans in Kolhapur, India, are voicing concerns over the theft of their traditional sandal designs by luxury brand Prada, seeking acknowledgment and economic support while facing industry challenges.

In the town of Kolhapur, Maharashtra, a centuries-old tradition of crafting Kolhapuri sandals faces an urgent crisis as local artisans challenge luxury fashion house Prada for allegedly rolling out designs closely reminiscent of their handcrafted footwear. With origins tracing back to the 12th century, these iconic leather sandals are a symbol of cultural heritage and artisan skills, yet the thousands still embracing this craft find themselves struggling to survive amid modern mechanization and low wages.

58-year-old Sadashiv Sanake, who has been immersed in the meticulous craft of sandal-making since childhood, states, "A whole day's work goes into making just eight to ten pairs." These sandals, generally available for about $8-10, confer little financial security to the artisans, of whom fewer than 5,000 remain dedicated to the trade. When news broke of Prada’s new line unveiled at Milan Fashion Week—bearing a striking similarity to their products without a nod to traditional artisans—it ignited outrage across social media channels. This uproar forced Prada to acknowledge the roots of their design.

Local politicians and prominent industry groups rallied behind the artisans advocating for recognition of their craft and its historical significance. Upon learning of the outrage and the luxury pricing associated with Prada’s sandals, which retail for between £600 and £1,000, Sanake was incredulous, wondering, “Do they have gold in them?”

The craft has a complex history; initially crafted by the marginalized Charmakar community, these sandals gained royal patronage in the early 20th century. Presently, nearly 100,000 artisans across India engage in this trade, valued at over $200 million. Still, the reality of poverty permeates the industry, as artisans like 60-year-old Sunita Satpute find themselves earning merely $4-5 daily, a sum that dissuades younger generations from pursuing the craft.

Amid pervasive economic challenges, including the rising cost of leather—prompted by policy changes that restrict cow slaughter—the artisans struggle to withstand competition from cheap synthetic alternatives flooding the market. The economic burden has reformed traditional selling practices, diminishing customers’ ability to recognize authentic craftsmanship.

According to industry experts, the current situation underscores the pressing need for improved legal protections for artisans’ rights. India conferred the Geographical Indication (GI) status to Kolhapuri sandals in 2019, securing authenticity domestically, but lacks stringent global measures against imitations. Legal experts propose invoking the TRIPS agreement under the World Trade Organization, although the process is intricate and often fraught with enforceability issues.

In light of the controversy, the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry & Agriculture (MACCIA) has plans to secure a patent for Kolhapuri sandal designs, potentially establishing a legal precedence for future scenarios. However, some advocates suggest a paradigm shift in recognizing traditional heritage as essential to safeguarding artisans' rights, emphasizing the need for ethical collaboration and revenue-sharing among the creators and luxury brands.

Despite historical grievances over cultural appropriation in the fashion industry, this incident might open doors for increased appreciation of Kolhapuri sandals. Some see Prada's interest as a catalyst that could elevate the perceived value of this handicraft, prompting interest from international markets. Local seller Rohit Balkrishna Gavali notes, “The design Prada used wasn't even popular, but now we are receiving inquiries from clients in Dubai, the US, and Qatar."

As the situation unfolds, a legal plea has emerged in the high court demanding that Prada compensate the artisans, along with urging a court-supervised partnership with artisan associations. As discussions between Prada and the MACCIA are scheduled, the community awaits a resolution that ensures economic dignity for the artisans whose heritage laid the groundwork for their global exploration.