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Observing Conflict: Beirut’s Hillside Spectators Reflect on War's Toll

As airstrikes continue over Dahiya, Beirut's outskirts transform into a somber viewing spot for locals and journalists alike, showcasing the grim reality of ongoing conflict.

By Christina GoldbaumSource: nytimes.com2 min read
Observing Conflict: Beirut’s Hillside Spectators Reflect on War's Toll
Image via nytimes.com

In brief

Each evening, crowds gather on a hillside in Baabda, Lebanon, to witness airstrikes targeting the Dahiya neighborhoods during an escalating conflict with Hezbollah. This growing ritual not only highlights the war’s impact on a community but also stirs sectarian tensions, revealing deep-rooted divisions amid destruction.

As dusk descends in Baabda, a suburb adjoining Beirut, a diverse gathering of onlookers converges nightly on a prominent hillside. The scene is both haunting and surreal; young men, elderly couples, and local journalists crowd atop cement barriers and motorcycles, their eyes fixed on the smog-filled sky as airstrikes batter the nearby Dahiya neighborhood. With increasing violence marking two months of conflict between Hezbollah and Israel, the hillside has morphed into a somber observatory for those who cannot escape the specter of war.The clamor of each airstrike elicits a collective hush. Locals look for plumes of smoke—double-checking the chaos unfolding before them. “Look, look at the balcony, there. Do you see it?” exclaimed Osama Assaf, 43, illustrating the frayed nerves now part of evening life. The airstrikes, claimed by Israeli officials to target militant facilities, ironically illustrate the casualties of urban conflict affecting buildings and lives in densely inhabited Dahiya.Previously a recreational area where families shared time together and lovers enjoyed picnics, the hillside now reveals the stark devastation. With the area governed by Hezbollah—an Iran-backed militia—the strategic bombings have laid waste to the narrow roads and crowded apartment complexes, leaving neighborhoods resembling bombed-out ruins draped in ash and debris.What began as reporters disseminating updates from the hillside quickly attracted those whose lives were upended by the fighting. Some are desperate refugees wanting to confirm the fate of their homes, while others experience tedium in the grip of conflict, their pre-war routines shattered. Occasionally, young men from Christian communities nearby join the gathering, amplifying the long-standing sectarian tensions that simmer beneath the surface of Lebanese society.As the war reshapes not only the landscape but also the social fabric, the hillside's watchers are caught in a complex maelstrom of fear, curiosity, and ancient rivalries. In times of peace, this beautiful view was a reflection of Lebanon's vibrant life, but now it stands as a poignant reminder of the conflict that persists, capturing the deep scars it inflicts on its people and their futures.

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