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Culinary Clash: The Arepa Rivalry Between Colombia and Venezuela

A deep-rooted debate over the origins and supremacy of the beloved arepa unites and divides Colombia and Venezuela.

By James WagnerSource: nytimes.com1 min read
Culinary Clash: The Arepa Rivalry Between Colombia and Venezuela
Image via nytimes.com

In brief

As both nations fiercely defend their culinary claim to the arepa, a staple dish with personal and national significance, the longstanding rivalry reflects not just culinary preferences, but deeper social and political currents.

In the heart of Medellín, Colombia, chef Gustavo Zapata meticulously crafts various arepas, showcasing the rich culinary heritage of his country. However, this traditional dish has sparked a heated debate between Colombia and its neighbor, Venezuela, both of which consider the arepa a fundamental part of their identity.The arepa, a versatile cornmeal delight, is integral to the daily lives of Colombians and Venezuelans alike. From breakfast to late-night snacks, it holds a cherished place in their respective cultural narratives. Yet, the question of its true origins ignites fierce competition, with each country ardently claiming superiority. “Everyone defends their territory,” says Zapata, highlighting how culinary pride often mirrors larger cultural and nationalistic sentiments. This edible battleground echoes other global disputes, such as the arguments over ceviche between Peruvians and Ecuadorians, or the controversies surrounding hummus in the Middle East. Politically, the arepa becomes a symbol in Venezuela under President Nicolás Maduro, who has embraced it as a point of national pride, asserting its exclusive roots in Venezuelan cuisine. This stance is intensified by the mass migration from Venezuela caused by economic and political turmoil, further proliferating variants of the dish internationally and complicating the argument.As more Venezuelans share their history and version of the arepa with the world, the culinary conflict evolves, underscoring the emotional and cultural ties each nation has to this beloved food.

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