A Turkish attempt to force kebab shops in the EU to adhere to strict rules on how to make a doner kebab has been withdrawn.


If the bid for a 'Traditional Speciality Guaranteed' label had succeeded, restrictions would have been imposed on the types of ingredients that could be used.


Germany's kebab industry would have been particularly skewered, as the quintessential high street doner has evolved over the decades to be rather different than the original from Turkey.


Turkish authorities argued the doner should be viewed as a national dish that spread to Europe through the migration of Turks. But German officials said its adaptation had become part of their own national cuisine.


The traditional way of cooking meat on a vertical rotisserie goes back to the 16th Century, according to Turkey's International Doner Federation (Udofed), who had proposed uniform rules across the EU requiring that:



  • the meat would come from a cow aged over 16 months, lamb aged at least six months, or chicken thighs and breasts

  • veal and turkey meat would be banned

  • meat would have to be sliced to a thickness of 3-5mm

  • the type of knife used would be regulated and marinades would be subject to rules


The German variant of a kebab often includes veal in a flatbread packed with vegetables and sauces, presenting a European take on the Turkish classic.


Falling short of compromise, this initiative faced criticism from the German food and agriculture ministry, highlighting the astonishment with which it was received last year.


Former German food and agriculture minister Cem Özdemir asserted that it was up to everyone in Germany to determine how a doner should be prepared and enjoyed, rejecting external guidelines.


If Udofed had followed through with its bid, the vast European kebab industry, particularly influenced by the Turkish diaspora, would have faced significant changes. In Germany alone, there are over 1.5 million Turkish citizens and many more of Turkish descent, with around 60,000 people employed in kebab production, contributing to a market that generates approximately €3.5 billion annually across Europe.


The Turkish federation announced the withdrawal of its bid on September 23, amid substantial objection and a likely rejection from EU regulators.

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